This review is on the book Smartguide Plumbing step-by-step. I couldn’t find the author but the book is brought to you by the team at Creative Homeowner. I found the book to be very informative and very helpful and refreshing with the color pictures, a nice change from the black and white diagrams. Will really help you with your DIY plumbing. To give you a better gauge of the writing style here is some text for your reading pleasure from the book: “Every plumbing system has sme portion of its drainage piping underground, even if it’s only the shower service line. Many houses with basements and all slab-on-grade homes will have soil pipes trenched in place before the concrete goes down. If you build an addition that requires below grade piping or if you break out some portion of your existing concrete to add piping, you’ll need to know the basics. In ground piping must be able to support the substantial weight of the soil and concrete above it. This means that the trench that you dig for the pipe must be uniform., with adequate slope, and without extreme high spots or voids. High spots can squeeze a pipe out of round, hindering flow. Voids beneath the pipe can cause sags and breaks. When you install in-ground piping, take all the time you need to perfect the trench bed. Use a level on each length of pipe to ensure adequate slope. As always, shoot for 1/4 inch of slope per foot. Dig as deep as you must to meet an existing pipe or sewer service line. In the case of a new home, this may mean digging under an exterior footing. In a remodel, dig to the same level as the pipe into which you need to splice. Always try to square the sides of the trench. A 12-to 16-inch width is ideal, but try not to overexcavate. If you happen to dig too deeply, don’t try to undo the mistake by packing soil back into the trench. Disturbed soil will continue to settle for years. Bring a low spot back to grade with compatible sand or gravel. Sand is really the best way to ensure a uniform trench. Protect the piping. If careless concrete workers are likely to bump into floor drains, laundry stands, and stack risers and leave them permanently out of position, stake these fittings into place with a 1/2 inch iron rebar topped with a pipe holder. This will keep the pipes stable and help them resist any inadvertant manhandling. Also, be sure to cover the top of each riser and floor-drain screen with duct tape when you’re finished installing the pipe. This will keep concrete and other debris from falling into them. Many a homeowner has had to jackhammer the floor of a spanking-new home to retrieve a chunk of construction debris from the soil pipe. If you’re installing a toilet in the addition, cover the top of the toilet drain with a plastic cap before the concrete goes down.” If you liked this review, click here for more.